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Coat & Jacket Fabrics

Coat & Jacket Fabrics

Outerwear is the one thing you'll wear every day for years, so it's worth making in cloth that earns it. This collection covers coat and jacket fabric across the full spread: wool coating and tweed for overcoats, waxed cotton for weatherproof jackets, boucle, quilted and fleece for lighter layers, plus denim, corduroy and faux fur. Weights and widths vary, so order a sample to check the handle first.
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Coat fabric has to do more work than almost any other cloth. It needs to hold a shape over months of wear, keep weather out, take a lining and a good deal of interfacing, and still look like something you'd choose to put on. That's why outerwear cloth tends to be heavier and more structured than dressmaking fabric, and why the choice of cloth does more to determine how a coat turns out than the pattern does.

Wool dominates this collection, and for good reason: it insulates while still breathing, it resists water surprisingly well before any treatment, and it's naturally flame retardant. Melton, tweed, boucle, flannel and cashmere blends all sit here in a spread of weights. Beside the wool, waxed cotton is the traditional British answer to rain, in 6oz and 12oz weights that soften and mark with use in the way people either love or don't. There's also quilted fabric and fleece for linings and lighter jackets, corduroy, denim, faux fur, faux leather and outdoor fabrics.

Choosing cloth by garment

Overcoats and winter coats want the heavier wool coatings and meltons, which hold a tailored line and take the weather. Casual and workwear jackets suit waxed cotton, denim, corduroy and canvas, all of which wear in rather than out. Unstructured and boxy jackets work well in boucle and tweed, which have texture and body without needing full tailoring underneath. Lighter layers and gilets are where quilted fabric and fleece come in, and they double as linings for a heavier outer.

Waxed cotton, briefly

It behaves differently to everything else here, so it's worth knowing before you commit. The wax makes it water-repellent and gives it a distinctive dry, slightly tacky handle. It doesn't press with a hot iron, since the wax will move, and it marks where it's folded or creased, which is part of the character rather than a fault. Use clips instead of pins where you can, as pin holes stay. It can be re-waxed once it starts to dull, which is why a waxed jacket lasts decades. Check the individual product page for the specific guidance.

Sewing outerwear

Everything gets thicker than you expect. Use a heavier needle and a longer stitch, and slow down where seams stack up. Press wool properly, with steam and a cloth, since a well-pressed seam is most of what makes a coat look tailored. Most coats need interfacing through the front, collar and lapel, and a lining to let the whole thing slide on. Bulky cloth wants seams grading and pressing open rather than to one side. Always follow the care guidance on the individual product, as it varies a good deal across this range.

Related collections

For more wool, see wool fabrics, and for the rest of the make there's lining fabric and interfacing. Patterns are in coat and jacket patterns.

What fabric is best for making a coat?

For a structured winter coat, a wool coating or melton is the traditional choice, since it holds a tailored shape and keeps the weather out while still breathing. Boucle and tweed suit softer, unstructured designs. If you want something weatherproof and casual, waxed cotton is the classic British option. Your pattern will state the weight it was drafted for, which is worth following.

How much fabric do I need for a coat?

Check your pattern, as it varies with the size, the length and the fabric width. Coats use more than most garments, and you'll need lining and interfacing on top of the outer cloth. Directional fabrics such as tweed with a nap, or anything with a check to match, need extra again. If in doubt, buy the larger quantity, since dye lots vary between orders.

Is waxed cotton waterproof?

Water-repellent rather than fully waterproof, which is enough for most British weather. The wax sheds rain and can be reproofed once it starts to dull, which is why a waxed jacket lasts so long. It shouldn't be washed conventionally or pressed with a hot iron, as the wax will move. Follow the guidance on the individual product page.

Do I need to line a coat?

In almost all cases, yes. A lining lets the coat slide over what's underneath, hides the seams and interfacing, and adds a layer of warmth. Heavier wools in particular are uncomfortable directly against the skin. Our lining fabric collection covers the options, and it's worth ordering samples of the outer and lining together to check them side by side.

Can I order a sample first?

Yes, and it's worth doing with outerwear cloth in particular, since weight and handle matter more here than on almost anything else and neither reads accurately on a screen. Use the Order Sample option on the product page.

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