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Paisley Changeant Linings Group

Jacquard Fabric

Jacquard is woven, not printed, so the pattern is built into the cloth and reads on both sides. The range here runs from heavier woven brocades and shot changeant through to soft knitted jacquard jerseys, so it covers occasionwear and everyday sewing in the same collection. Sold by the metre or half metre depending on the fabric. Order Sample if you want to see how a design catches the light before you commit.
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Jacquard isn't a fibre or a finish, it's a way of weaving. On a jacquard loom every warp thread can be lifted independently, which means the pattern is constructed thread by thread rather than printed onto a finished cloth. That's why the design holds its colour through washing and why you can usually see it, reversed, on the back.

What's here splits into two quite different halves. The woven side takes in brocades with raised, sometimes metallic motifs, changeant fabrics shot through with two colours so the shade shifts as they move, and finer jacquard gauzes and checks. The knitted side is mostly jacquard jersey and Ponte Roma, where the pattern is knitted in rather than woven, giving a stable fabric with stretch. The grid above is the definitive list of what's in stock today.

Choosing the right jacquard

Woven brocade and changeant hold a shape. They're the ones for structured occasionwear where you want the garment to stand away from the body: fitted bodices, waistcoats, box jackets, full skirts. The heavier weights will need lining.

Jacquard gauze and lighter woven jacquards drape more, so they suit blouses, softer dresses and anything gathered.

Knitted jacquard jersey and Ponte Roma are the practical everyday option. They've got recovery, they don't crease, and they sew on a standard machine with a stretch needle.

Sewing and pressing

Cut single layer where the pattern is large enough to need matching, and mark the direction before you separate the pieces - many jacquards have a definite up and down even when it isn't obvious on the roll. Woven jacquards fray, so overlock or finish the seams as you go.

Press from the wrong side, over a pressing cloth, with the fabric face down on a towel if the pattern is raised. Direct heat on the right side flattens the texture, and on anything with metallic thread it can mark permanently. Test on an offcut first.

What's the difference between jacquard and brocade?

Brocade is a type of jacquard. All brocade is woven on a jacquard loom, but not all jacquard is brocade - brocade specifically carries a raised, often metallic pattern that sits proud of the ground cloth.

Which side is the right side?

Usually the side where the pattern reads cleanest and the floating threads are least visible. Turn the cloth over and you'll often see the same design in reverse with looser threads across the back. Either can be used as the face if you prefer the effect, just be consistent across every piece you cut.

Is jacquard difficult to sew?

Not especially, but the woven pattern means it can fray and the heavier brocades don't ease well. Cut single layer so you can match the design, finish the seams, and press from the wrong side over a cloth so you don't flatten the texture.

Can I wash jacquard fabric?

It depends entirely on the fibre. Polyester jacquards generally wash cool, whilst anything with metallic thread or a silk content is usually better dry cleaned. Check the individual product page and the fabric care label before washing, and test a sample first.

What can I make with jacquard?

The woven brocades suit structured occasionwear: jackets, waistcoats, bodices and full skirts. The knitted jacquard jerseys behave completely differently and are better for tops, dresses and anything you want to have some give in it.

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