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Corduroy & Needlecord Fabric

Corduroy & Needlecord Fabric

Corduroy is graded by its wales, the raised cords that run down the fabric, and this collection covers the full range for dressmaking: chunky jumbo cord, classic 8-wale corduroy, stretch cord with a little give, and fine 21-wale needlecord and babycord. You'll find solid colours, prints and a spread of weights across cotton and cotton-blend cloths. Sold by the metre. Order a sample first to check the weight and colour before you buy.
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Corduroy has quietly become a year-round staple. It has the warmth and texture of a winter fabric but, in its finer weights, the versatility of an everyday cotton, which is why it turns up on everything from workwear trousers to summer pinafores. The defining feature is the wale: the number of cords per inch, which sets how chunky or fine the finished cloth looks.

This collection runs the full wale range. The wale is the number of cords per inch, and the higher the number, the finer the rib. Jumbo cord, also called elephant cord, runs around 5 to 8 wales per inch: bold and warm, ideal for statement jackets, dungarees and structured skirts. Standard corduroy, roughly 8 to 11 wales and available in washed and stretch versions, is the classic trouser and dress weight. Stretch corduroy, blended with a little elastane, adds comfort for a closer fit. Needlecord, also called pin cord, is fine and soft at around 16 to 21 wales, with many lines Oeko-Tex certified, and suits shirts, dresses, skirts and children's clothes, while babycord is finer still. You'll also find printed and floral cords alongside the solid colours. Weights span roughly 125gsm to 337gsm, so check the product page for the exact cord and fibre.

Matching the wale to your project

As a rule, the chunkier the wale, the more structured the make. Jumbo and standard cords hold a tailored shape for trousers, jackets and dungarees. Needlecord and babycord are softer and drape more, so they suit shirts, gathered skirts, dresses and childrenswear. Stretch cords give a closer, more comfortable fit. For a fuller explanation of wales and how to sew with cord, our complete guide to corduroy and needlecord goes into more detail.

Sewing with corduroy

Corduroy has a pile, which makes it a napped fabric: cut all your pattern pieces in the same direction so the colour reads evenly, usually with the pile running upwards for a richer shade. Press on the reverse or over a towel to avoid crushing the cord, and a walking foot helps feed the heavier weights. Prewash if you plan to wash the finished garment, as cotton cord can shrink slightly on its first wash. Always follow the care guidance on the product page, as this varies by fibre.

What's the difference between corduroy and needlecord?

It comes down to the wale, the number of cords per inch. Corduroy has fewer, chunkier cords, which makes it heavier and more structured, ideal for trousers and jackets. Needlecord has many fine cords (ours is 21-wale), so it's softer and lighter, better suited to shirts, dresses and children's clothes. This collection covers both, plus jumbo cord and babycord at either end of the range.

What does "wale" mean?

The wale is the number of cords, or ridges, per inch across the fabric. A lower wale count means chunkier, wider cords; a higher count means finer, closer ones. Our range runs from bold jumbo cord at around 5 to 8 wales through to fine 21-wale needlecord, so you can pick the texture that suits your project.

Is corduroy always 100% cotton?

Many of ours are, particularly the needlecords, some of which are Oeko-Tex certified. The stretch corduroys are blended with a little elastane for give, and a few lines use other blends. Check the individual product page for the exact fibre content before you buy.

How do I sew corduroy without crushing the pile?

Treat it as a napped fabric and cut all your pieces in the same direction so the colour reads evenly. Press on the reverse or over a towel rather than directly on the pile, and use a walking foot to feed the heavier weights. It's also worth prewashing cotton cord first, as it can shrink slightly.

Can I order a sample before buying?

Yes. Most fabrics are available as a sample so you can check the wale, weight and colour before committing to a full cut. Use the Order Sample option on the product page.

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